Antithesis of the Anti-climatic

     Today's field study flew by. Maybe that's because I spent most of it on the bus sleeping in between sites. But we had to leave by 7 AM. So I feel like a little napping is justified. It came and went in such a blur that I had to just now look at the photos I took to remember where we had gone.

     We started the day at ancient Shechem in modern day Nablus, which is in Samaria/ancient Manasseh. Apparently, these sights have only been open to non-Palestinians in recent years. This was our professor's second time going, because it's been closed for 13 years. So we were very blessed to be able to go. Unfortunately, since it's been closed and Nablus isn't tourist territory – because Israelis can't go, so it's closed to all Israeli tour guides (which is all tour guides) – the area hasn't been kept up or cleaned very well. That being said, the people of the city have started to try to make it look nicer, since tourism could potentially boost the economy in the area and Lord knows they need it. I thought Jerusalem was a dirty city till I got to Nablus. The Middle East believes that since public property isn't their property, then they don't need to clean it. And there are piles of trash everywhere. Anyways, back on track here. Ancient Shechem. I hate to say it, but one pile of rocks is starting to appear like any other pile of rocks. You really have to have a gift to be an archaeologist. I don't know how they can look at something like that and say, “Yes. This looks like it was a room. And this was probably a temple.” All I see is 2 feet high rocks that appear to be making a hedge in a specific pattern. They're able to go in and see that a 15 feet thick wall is probably that large in order to build up and have multiple levels; that a square of rock hedge makes an entry room; that if there are two walls on the right that create an inlet, then the set of rocks on the left probably was attached to a door that slid into that inlet. I don't get it, but God bless those that can. What I'm trying to say is that these sights are becoming less and less impressive to me, by themselves. What makes the sights interesting is seeing the sight in place of the geography in it. That I could stand in the destroyed temple at Shechem and look up and Mount Gerazim and Mount Ebal and know that is where the blessings and curses of the covenant were shouted. There is also a remnant of a standing stone inside what they believe to be the temple, which is probably the place where Moses placed an altar to the Lord; this is where Joseph's bones were buried; also see the story of Abimelech in Judges 9; and where Rehoboam, son of Solomon, had to go in order to be crowned King when the Kingdom was still united. So lots of good stuff happening at Shechem. Even in the dry season, the land looks very green and flat – not at all like Jerusalem. I can certainly see why people would want to live there.

     Then we went to the remembered sight of Jacob's well where – you guessed it! - there's an orthodox church on top of it. I guess it was fun to draw water from the well and drink from it, though. I'm sure several people were more excited than me. But, once again, we don't know if that's really place, there's a church on it controlling everything that is done in the well's presence (like it's some living Holy person), and it's not about the sight for me. Not that I don't appreciate having been there. I just don't see a reason to get all hyped about it.

     We made our way through a Samaritan village up to the top of Mount Gerazim – which was awesome. I guess the people there aren't used to seeing tour buses go through there. Which isn't surprising, with the roads through that village. I don't know what they do in Israel to train their bus drivers, but they are able to a bus through a place that I wouldn't take my car. The allies/roads going up to the top, were just wider than the bus... and there were sharp turns. Absolutely crazy. The same time we got there, the kids were beginning to be released from school and they all stood on the sides of the road and waved at us while we went up. I also think it's crazy that Samaritans still exist, they read the Pentateuch, and are waiting for a Messiah. They can tell from just the first 5 books of the Bible – Moses' books – that a Messiah will be coming for them. I don't know that I would make that connection without the Prophets or New Testament. The problem with the Samaritan villages is that they are a small, dieing group of people, since they can't marry out of their group and I'm sure many have converted to Christianity (a.k.a. The woman at the well – John 4). A few years ago they called out for 12 women of Muslim and Jewish origin to help them try to repopulate their group. They claim it's the only time they've every married/reproduced outside of their society. But they were having genetic problems, because of all the intermarriage. Anyways, the view from the top of mount Gerazim was pretty amazing and we stood up on top and reenacted the Bible by reading the blessing and curses.

     Afterwords, we went back down the Mountain into the ancient city of Samaria/Sychar where Omri and his son Ahab (Jezebel's husband) had moved the capital to there – it was in Shechem. Shechem was a good capital in that it was surrounded by natural resources – water and great agricultural land and was near all the major routes, but it was in the valley and not very well protected. This city sits on a highway leading to Moab, where they controlled an exportation of wool. Now Jezebel's family was Phoenician, and through her and Ahab's marriage, Sychar had a connection to the Coastal Plane where purple dye was produced. See what he did there? He had a monopoly on purple dye and wool. So he was controlling trade for the most expensive good – purple cloth, which was used for religious practices in Judaism and for religious and rich/important people. Due to Jezebel being the daughter of a past high priest of Ba'al, Omri and Ahab weren't the most religious kings and so were named evil in the sight of the Lord. But, economically, they were great kings. I found all of that pretty fascinating. The sight, just looked like a pile of rocks to me. I was kind of disappointed when I walked all the way up the stupid hill to find stuff that looked the same as everywhere else. Though, I was able to get a pretty sweet 360 degree view from the top that I will post another time.

     The last place that we visited was Shilo, which was the place where the Tabernacle was when the Israelite finally arrived in Israel. It was also where Hannah went to drop off Samuel to Eli. This was the most anti-climatic place. All it is, is green fields where they make guesses as to where the Tabernacle was and a bunch of rock walls and structures from the Byzantine area. It was lame sauce, and I was tired and hot.

In reflection, it was a decent day but certainly not the most exciting. Hopefully next trip will be better. We're going to Benjamin!

     Weeks here are pretty boring. It's been too hot to go out and do anything and I have had a lot of homework, since taking on Hebrew. It doesn't help that Judah's Exile and Restoration has 7 textbooks and we often have selected readings from like three or four of them per class period, plus a journal. I am all too happy to hang out in the library or the dining hall, in the shade, working on homework, benefiting from a fan and the breeze that comes in through the windows. I'll explore the city more when it cools down. Not even tantalizing pastries and bagels that are a 10 minute walk from me can pull me from this building. I pray for rain on a daily basis.